Milktooth chef named among America's best new chefs

Billed one of 10 "culinary superstars of tomorrow," Milktooth chef Jonathan Brooks of Indianapolis will be featured in the July issue of Food & Wine and showcased at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colo. June 19-21.

The magazine calls its best new chefs "the most innovative up-and-coming cooks in America." Former winners include nationally recognized Daniel Boulud, Nancy Silverton, Tom Colicchio and David Chang.

"Spotting amazing talent and uncovering exciting new trends go hand in hand. This year, we're seeing serious takes on breakfast and lunch from brilliant chefs like Jonathan Brooks at Milktooth in Indianapolis. Plus, the taco trend keeps growing, driven by the incredible creativity of chefs like Carlos Salgado at Taco Maria in Costa Mesa, California," Food & Wine editor Dana Cowin said.

Other chefs on the 2015 list are Jake Bickelhaupt of 42 Grams in Chicago; Jim Christiansen of Heyday in Minneapolis, Minn.; Bryce Shuman of Betony in New York City; Michael Fojtasek & Grae Nonas of Olamaie in Austin, Texas; Zoi Antonitsas of Westward in Seattle, Wash.; Katie Button of Cúrate in Asheville, N.C.; Tim Maslow of Ribelle in Brookline, Mass.; and Ori Menashe of Bestia in Los Angeles.

Food & Wine editors choose the best new chefs by soliciting nominations from restaurant critics, food writers and what the magazine called "other trusted experts" around the country. Nominees must be creative chefs who have been in charge of a kitchen for five years or fewer. The editors then travel incognito to taste the food.

Accolades have been steady since Milktooth's debut. Zagat recognized the restaurant as a reason why Fletcher Place is among America's 10 hot food neighborhoods. Indianapolis Monthly recently included Milktooth in the magazine's its best new restaurants lineup. This summer, Brooks, four other Indy chefs and a bartender stage an Indiana-inspired dinner at the James Beard House in New York City. Beard House is where the country's top chefs go to showcase their talent.

Inspired by homespun meals, Brooks defines new Indianapolis cuisine while still evoking childhood comfort food memories. Hence the restaurant's name, Milktooth. Born from an old auto garage, the 534 Virginia Ave. place garnered more than a thousand social media followers months before opening in fall 2014, positioning Brooks to try anything on his now national fan base.

With strong regard for local ingredients, food culture and classic technique, Brooks applies a thoughtful edge. Muntanyola cheese, green grapes, tatsoi and local smoked ham might crown little cornmeal Dutch pancakes. Soft scrambled eggs cushion Burgundy truffles and osetra caviar, pork rinds instead of bacon on the side.

In an old-school, short-order-style kitchen, behind spinning stools at a counter, Brooks and his Milktooth team work in guests' full view. "We call ourselves a fine diner," Brooks told the Indianapolis Star in 2014. "We're not pretentious, but we're not just bacon and eggs."

Growing up in Indianapolis, Brooks landed his first dishwashing job at age 14. In the two years before opening Milktooth, he was chef de cuisine at the city's highly regarded Recess, known for its creative seasonal menus. Recess chef/owner Greg Hardesty has been a James Beard Best Chef: Great Lakes award semi-finalist three times, including this year.

Call Liz Biro at (317) 444-6264. Follow her on Twitter @lizbiro, Instagram @lizbirodishand Facebook. Email her at liz.biro@indystar.com.