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Liz Biro: Best of the new restaurants

Restaurants open often in and around Indianapolis. Not all of them make the cut

Liz Biro
liz.biro@indystar.com
The "izakaya" portion of the Kizuki name is a compound Japanese word, the “i” meaning “stay,” and “sakaya” meaning “sake shop.” In Japan, an izakaya amounts to something like a gastropub. Kizuki supplements its ramen menu with various nibbles. Deep-fried chicken wings were crisp and tender, lightly brushed with tangy sweet citrus garlic glaze.

Indiana restaurants are projected to do $11.2 billion in sales this year, according to the Indiana Restaurant & Lodging Association.

Sometimes it feels like all of that business is happening in and around Indianapolis.

Restaurants open often. Not all of them make the cut. These are worth a place on your calendar.

Griggsby’s Station

I rolled my eyes when the free-range sirloin with chimichurri showed up alongside grilled watermelon, but it was no menu gimmick. The delicately smoky watermelon adored the beef. I sampled the sweet-savory success during a June 16 test run at the downtown Greenfield gastropub scheduled to open by June’s end. Local meats and farm-fresh produce guide thoughtful creativity. ExactTarget co-founder Chris Baggott is behind Griggsby’s Station, named for Hoosier poet James Whitcomb Riley’s humorous work. After Baggot read Michael Pollan’s book “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,” he started free-range Tyner Pond Farm. Another Griggsby’s Station is due this fall in Irvington.

101 W. Main St., Greenfield; (317) 477-7217, facebook.com/Griggsbys-Station

Sirloin with chimichurri alongside grilled watermelon is an uncommon but tasty pair at Griggsby's Station in Greenfield. Local meats and farm-fresh produce guide thoughtful creativity. Bona Tavern will offer a similar menu when it debuts in 2017 in Irvington. Both are owned by local foods proponent Chris Baggott.

Samano's

The most important words you'll read today: bacon-wrapped burritos. Eat Here Indy turned me on to this place via Instagram. Steak or chicken, rice, beans, cheese, avocado, green bell pepper and chipotle dressing go into the flour tortilla before its wrapped in bacon and grilled. Don't miss Eat Here Indy's mouth-watering video of rotisserie-roasted pork, or pastor, being sliced right off the spit. It lands in corn tortilla tacos. Tortas, tamales, gringas, which are similar to quesadillias, and the meat and vegetable melange known as alambre are also on them menu.

14126 Bergen Blvd., Noblesville, (317) 900-7814, samanosmexicanfood.com

The bacon-wrapped burrito at Samano's in Noblesville.

The Golden

What started as a pop-up craft cocktail bar has become downtown Fort Wayne’s hottest restaurant. Chefs Aaron Butts and Sean Richardson launched the pop-up while they were shaking pans at acclaimed Joseph Decius in Roanoke. Butts is one of the state’s best chefs. He’s cooked twice at New York City’s James Beard House. The Golden’s farm-to-table fare is creative, fun, inclusive and so on my bucket list.  Raw radish and beet salad with honey, sea salt, ricotta cheese, pickled beet stems and radish microgreens impresses foodies. Little chicken heart corndogs appeal to adventurists. Late-night sloppy joes or a pork chop with basil pesto and charred root vegetables suit traditionalists. Find The Golden inside Ash Skyline Plaza.

898 Harrison St., (260) 710-368, goldenfw.com

Mr. Tequila’s

My Mexican dinner? Not so much. My guacamole? Definitely worth a return visit. Cooks make it fresh to order in a big molcajete the server brings to the table. The avocado is perfectly ripe, with fresh jalapeno and tomato. I like it with a tequila flight or a tamarind margarita that’s softly sweet and not too citrusy. The bar serves 17 margarita flavors.

931 S. East St., at Fletcher Place, across from Eli Lilly and Co., mrtequilasindy.com

Made-to-order guacamole and a tamarind magarita make a fine pair at Mr. Tequila's in Fletcher Place.

BitterSweet

Gruyere, mozzarella and goat cheeses plus an egg and roasted poblano chilies all baked in a cornmeal crust. That’s the chile relleno tart at Bitter Sweet in Irvington. Lunch brings classic gourmet sandwiches and salads like the caprese grilled cheese with provolone, fontina, mozzarella cheese, roasted tomatoes, fresh basil and balsamic glaze on sourdough bread. For dessert, consider chocolate stout cake, three layers high and coated in glossy chocolate ganache. It comes cold from the cooler. Order it first and let it come to room temperature on the table while you eat lunch.

5543 E. Washington St., (317) 602-7335, bittersweetindy.com

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Fat Dan’s Millikan on Mass

If you’re Downtown, you no longer have to head far up College Avenue for a Fat Dan’s Deli fix. The Chicago Italian beef sandwich, the addictive dry-rubbed, slow-smoked wings and all the burgers served at the original location are available at Mass Ave's Millikan on Mass apartment complex, across from the Rathskeller.

410 E. Michigan St., fatdansdeli.com

Fat Dan's Chicago-Style Deli owner/chef Dan Jarman checks the brisket and ribs. The deli's brisket spends at least 14 hours in hickory smoke.

Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya

I went to Kizuki for the ramen, but I left in love with the crispy wings. They were golden with tangy-sweet citrus garlic glaze, just enough to taste the zip. The meat was so tender it pulled easily from the bone. The “izakaya” portion of the Kizuki name is a compound Japanese word, the “i” meaning “stay” and “sakaya” meaning “sake shop.” In Japan, an izakaya amounts to something like a gastropub, hence wings on the ramen shop’s menu. I’d like to have them right now with cold sake.

Cool Creek Commons shopping center, 2450 E. 146th St., (317) 218-3553, kizuki.com

The kale and sausage quiche at Neidhammer Coffee Co. Opening day is June 25.

Neidhammer Coffee Co.

This east-side building near Willard Park was Neidhamer drug store back in 1916. On June 25, it becomes Neidhammer Coffee Co. promising topnotch brews and food, including a sausage kale quiche. Owners plan full coffee service from “highly trained” baristas. Find it on Washington Street, at Hamilton, between Rural Street and Arsenal Avenue.

2102 E. Washington St., (814) 935-9977, neidhammer.com/neidhammercoffeeco

Liz Biro: 11 new restaurants offering world flavors

Open Society

A garage door out front swings wide open at this South American tribute with what I call that "chilltastic" SoBro vibe, laid back but lively. Enjoy the morning air with coffee and a tender, from-scratch corn and bell pepper biscuit. When summer temperatures soar, consider The Kingsley, a mint and orange iced espresso shaken with cream. Baristas work with ultra-filtered water. At sundown, the places buzzes, and the front dining room gets loud. Want to retreat? Hit the back bar for an icy Aperol spritz, with orange and sparkling wine. Share a plate of causitos, a stylish presentation of meat and potatoes. The chef spoons meltingly tender duck confit over little potato puree mounds seasoned with aji amarillo chilies. It's Mom food on an international level.

4850 N College Ave., at 49th Street, opensocietyindy.com

A garage door out front swings wide open at Open Society, a breakfast, lunch and dinner tribute to South America.

SotSot

Good luck getting your mouth around the pulled pork po’ boy with sautéed onions and bell peppers on French bread. Don’t give up. Let the juices drip. Proudly wear those stars on your shirt. You just conquered one of Indy’s best sandwiches. SotSot’s Cajun comfort food dates to the restaurant’s start as one of Indy’s first food trucks. The chicken and andouille gumbo is dark and smoky. SotSot is easy to find. It’s next door to that crazy safe door on College Avenue at 24th.

2405 N. College Ave., at 24th Street, facebook.com/sotsot1catering

Which way is in? That's the question you ask yourself when encountering SotSot's loaded-down pulled pork po' boy sandwich. Any place you bite is a good bite.

Mimi Blue

Now open in Carmel, Mimi Blue is so good at its shtick that even the vegan meatballs are on-point. They’re not at all mushy or bland. In fact, they may be my favorite on the menu. I like them best with spicy cilantro sauce. Get beef and turkey meatballs, too, on their own, on sandwiches and sliders or with sides including polenta, mashed potatoes, fried Brussels sprouts and mac and cheese.

12505 Old Meridian St., (317) 564-8524, mimibluemeatballs.com

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Follow IndyStar food writer Liz Biro on Twitter: @lizbiro, Instagram: @lizbiroFacebook and Pinterest. Call her at (317) 444-6264.

Griggsby's Station is a downtown Greenfield gastropub scheduled to open by  June’s end.